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AUTHOR PHOTOS BY CELIA MANGUS

July 07, 2004
North to Alaska

I'd like to know where you got the notion / To spend your whole vacation out on the ocean

It was the first night of my first cruise, and I was sitting in a Vegas-style theater watching eight sequined performers belt out these lyrics to the tune of "Rock the Boat," that inimitable 70s anthem by the Hues Corporation. (Yes, I knew who sang "Rock the Boat" without googling it. Yes, it scares me, too.) I, myself, was wondering where I got that notion. After all, I'm not a cruise kinda guy; I'm still several decades away from my seventies, and I don't find shuffleboard all that interesting.

Still, because the cruise was a thoughtful gift from my inlaws, I was more than willing to give it a shot. And eight days days later, after traveling some 2,800 nautical miles on Holland America's m.s. Amsterdam to Alaska and back, I have to begrudgingly say: I liked it. I really, really liked it. (And yes, this thought also scares me.) The sights in the ports were wonderful (Glacier Bay, Juneau, Sitka, Ketchikan, Victoria, B.C.), as expected. But my time aboard the good ship Amsterdam was rather fun, as well.

Primarily, I ate--an easy thing to do, since food is seemingly available 24 hours a day. I also read--"Song of Susannah," Stephen King's latest Dark Tower entry (a big thumbs up), and "Still Life With Crows" by Douglas Preston and Lincoln Child (also enjoyable, but not as fun as "Relic" or "Reliquary"). I swam in a pool under a glass retractible dome, although I only swam about 1/100 of the time my charming young daughter did. And, undeterred by the first night's crude butchering of "Rock the Boat" (if such a thing is possible), I attended some enjoyable nightly shows, including a great magic show by Greg Frewin.

Did I mention I ate a lot?

Not that there weren't drawbacks. Every waking moment aboard the ship, they're pushing you to buy--buy drinks! buy duty-free diamonds! buy works of art!--and it certainly doesn't stop when you get off the ship. Every port has diamond stores, furriers, souvenir stores, and so on, all of them obviously owned and operated by the cruise lines. The ship even has a "Shopping Steward," a guy who ostensibly will tell you the best places to shop.

So, yes, the whole experience might be a bit too artificially manufactured, if you let it be so. But it doesn't have to be. In Juneau, for instance, we walked a few blocks past all the junk shops pushed by the cruise lines, and found a funky little bagel and sandwich place where we had lunch.

All in all, though, I really had no complaints. A cruise, I found, truly was a vacation that lets you get away from the real world for a few days, and that's worth more than a few jewelry shops. And, thanks to the generosity of my in-laws, I discovered a vacation option I probably would never have explored myself.

Maybe I've got a notion to spend another vacation out on the ocean.

Posted by TLHines at July 7, 2004 12:49 PM

Comments

We have taken about five cruises (all to Bermuda -- love the place) with the Usual Suspects. Rest, read, party, party, EAT, EAT, and D R I N K. Right down our alley.

Glad you had a good time. I'd like to do Alaska, but I don't think the Usuals want to go anywhere but Bermuda. OK by me. I'm easy. Another bloody mary, please.

Posted by: Jim at July 9, 2004 06:32 PM
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Great photos. Now I really would like to do Alaska.

Posted by: Jim at July 13, 2004 09:54 PM
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing with us. But one complaint: I sure wish that you had taken some pictures of totems, dang it.

(ducks)

Posted by: david at July 17, 2004 01:17 PM
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I lived in Juneau for nine years; these photos made me miss Southeast Alaska so much. You really caught the feel of Juneau and Sitka!

Posted by: SB at July 17, 2004 08:24 PM
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Great phallus, er, I mean, totem photos BTW.

Posted by: Randy at July 18, 2004 06:33 PM
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Great Photos. I am taking this same sail on Aug. 29. Looking at your pictures has been so much better than anything I have seen anywhere about the trip. I almost feel like I have already been there.

Posted by: Jane at August 20, 2004 10:52 PM
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